MAS UBUD, BALI, INDONESIA, JANUARY 2007
The Taman...
MAS UBUD, BALI, INDONESIA, JANUARY 2007
The Taman Harum Cottages (Fragrant Gardens) is a cluster of houses which provide hotel accommodation in Mas, a hamlet about 5 km south of Ubud a town famous for its carvings and paintings about 45 km north of Denpasar, the capital of Bali Island.The hotel has its own art and carvings gallery.
The staff were friendly and helpful from the driver who picked us up at the airport to the receptionist who invited us to meet her family in her house close to the hotel. An extraordinary rapport with charming and friendly people.
We stayed in a villa which was comfortable but a little dark. Outside our door started the exotic gardens which make up more than half the area occupied by the hotel, which is more a collection of individual villas than a hotel in the traditional sense of the word.
We were about 10 minutes away from the town itself but the Taman Harum provided a free taxi service.
One side of Taman Harum overlooks extensive rice paddy fields. Such paddy fields intersperse the well irrigated area of Ubud and its surrounds. Those which which I was able to observe from our balcony were being harvested during our stay so on our first morning I rose at 5.30 to see the dawn. Farmers were arriving from 6 am and whooping and waving to frighten the birds away . The flocks continued to swoop briefly on to the rice for half an hour or so and then left, presumably satisfied with a frugal breakfast filched from under the futile threats of the farmers as they strolled gently to their various tasks
I then went on my walk in the paddy organised by the hotel for $10. The Taman Harum is surrounded by a wall. Like Alice I slipped out of a door in the wall and almost immediately stepped on to the bund which surrounds the fields. These bunds enable water to be retained or drained depending on the stage of cultivation.
After leaving the dried out harvest fields we moved into the growing fields were lush and water was everywhere.
After careening over myriad bunds and a clear stream we left the paddy fields and emerged serenely into a kampong which was discreetly hidden by a row of palm trees. The streets were empty of vehicles; the farmers were in their fields; children were at school; only young mothers and their babies and a few grannies were to be seen. All smiled at me. Most of the houses had their own Hindu temples, large or miniscule. The temples had floral tributes placed before them which are replaced every morning to the accompaniment of a water sprinkling ceremony which reminded me of the “asperges ” ceremony of the Catholics.
My brief encounter with our rice farming neighbours impressed me mainly by its serenity and calm. Little had changed in their methods for centuries or millennia.
For a traditional Balinese base isolated from noise, Macdonalds and Coca Cola I would strongly recommend the Taman Harum