Finding New Caledonia
New Caledonia--or Kanaky, as the indigenous Melanesian inhabitants call it--is unique. In Noumea, the capital, the fine French restaurants, designer boutiques, and cosmopolitan crowds all proclaim that this is the Paris of the Pacific.
Yet over on the east coast of the main island and on all of the outliers, the Kanaks (from kanaka, the Hawaiian word for "human") and la Coutume (native custom) have survived a century and a half of colonial domination.
Though many tourists visit Noumea, surprisingly few cross the Chaîne Centrale to Grande Terre's exotic east coast, or travel by sea or air to the charming outer islands. Yet this is something you really must do to see the true New Caledonia. The possibilities are limitless, and it's a lot easier to travel around New Caledonia than it is to tour rural Vanuatu or Solomon Islands. This enigmatic French colony just north of the tropic of Capricorn, midway between Fiji and Australia, is quite unlike any of its neighbors and will surprise you in every respect.
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Where
New Caledonia lies between Vanuatu and Queensland, Australia, northwest of New Zealand.
When
New Caledonia occupies the same time zone as Vanuatu, an hour before New Zealand and an hour after Queensland.
Why
Noumea has excellent museums, restaurants, and shopping areas. It's a great adventure to drive around Grande Terre but you'll find the finest beaches on the outer islands.
How
The national airline, Aircalin, arrives from all neighboring countries. You can also come on Air New Zealand, Air Vanuatu, and Qantas.
Who
Of the 215,000 inhabitants, 44% are Melanesian, 34% European, 9%, and 10% are Polynesian. All are French citizens. |
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